On The Trail

Some other travelin' blogs I have been keeping up with...

2008-07-04T21:28:00.003-05:00

Looks like our 2004 original set off several groups of folks wanting to do something similar. Over time I have watched several of these "Travelin' Blogs" to see what kinds of different things I could be doing or what I could do better.

The first one I saw after the Great Western experience was a group of kids from Madera, California, and from Houston, Texas that would meet up in West Texas to ride in wagons, retracing the actual route of Texas gold miner, "William P. Huff", on his trek to California to seek his fortune. The "Huff" expedition had the sponsorship of TPWD, who keep a journal of the students thoughts.

Since 2004, educational adventure touring has become quite an enterprise. So have cattle and wagon trail tours. I am not sure how much your early efforts affected the tourism world or the historical world, nor do I really care. My efforts were for my own pure joy. And to this day, the trip blogs that I enjoy the most are mainly just for the sheer pleasure of documenting it. If you can make more of it great....and if not,....well, I guess that was the way it was meant to be.

There are two more recent adventure tours that I have been keeping up with. One is an effort by Bill Inman and his horse, Blackie, to cross the US. He documented his efforts at Uncovering America by Horseback. He succeeded in his effort by traveling from Oregon to Washington, DC arriving on Memorial Day of this year. This one also has a spin off blog, "I live in my truck", which you can learn more about here.

Another blog I am watching closely is a group of young boys, sailing a ship all the way around England, at Smiling Round Britain. They just finished their journey a couple of weeks ago.

My focus this time will be on how the trail rides were influenced by and influenced other byways and pathways of history. We will be looking at a lot of historical information again, though this time, I am planning a lot more preparatory work. And this time, I will be including some more segments about other trails that may have crossed the Great Western. Stagecoach trails, Military trails, Indian trails, and more will be included. If you are aware of any that I should be covering, please let me know.

Until then, see ya' down the trail.

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4th of July in Texas

2008-07-04T06:42:00.002-05:00

4th of July in Texas
Originally uploaded by David Kozlowski

Happy Holiday, campers...

Is it hot enough for you? I hope a lot of folks are sitting around sippin' something cold, and talkin' about memories of what has been....

While you are at it, I wish you would do me a favor. Send me a letter or drop me an email and tell me about what the first Great Western Trail ride meant to you. How has it affected you and your life? Do you have a memorable moment you want to share? Is there something that you want to say, that you just haven't told anyone about yet?

You can write to me at "elderbob", 2113 Sandra Lane, Grand Prairie, Texas, 75052 or you can email me at elderbob@eldertown.us. If your note is acceptable, and if it's OK with you, I'll try to work it into the blog in the coming weeks. Thanks. I am looking forward to hearing from you.

In the meantime, have a great weekend...and be safe.

2008-07-02T05:37:00.002-05:00

(Photo by William Addington - WilliaMedia)

...time to return to the trail...
Ok, so it's been almost four years. The blog is still sitting here, though now and then it collects a bit of dust. It has lost a bit of it's shine...some of the interviews and photos are missing, and people find and comment on it less often now. But I leave it here because it meant something to a lot of folks.

Not long ago, David and his wife, Heather Burrell, contacted me to let me know that plans were underway to do the trail drive again, only this time in reverse. I told them right away, that I wanted to be involved in some capacity.

So it was no real surprise to get a call a couple of days back from Heather, to let me know that there would be a Re-union of the 2004 ride, in Bandera over the 4th of July holiday. I can't make the reunion because of previously made plans, but I wanted to pass on the information to anyone who still has their aggregator set to monitor for changes in this blog.

I also wanted folks to know that this time around, I had more advance notice of the ride, and that this time, I would be doing much more pre-ride work so that it would serve more as a guide to the ride itself. I was already planning to resurrect the blog, and to start writing about some of the places that I had visited along the trail since 2004. I also needed to find some of the missing links so that the blog was more intact (for example, most of the recordings were missing...I have found those and am in the process of restoring them).

So here is what you need to know, the Great Western Trail website is full of all the information you need to keep you up-to-date on the status of the ride, and on the Re-union. Please stop by and say hello to everyone.

...Keeping in touch...

2004-10-25T11:04:00.013-05:00

Well, your adventure has finally drawn to a close. It's a bit sad in a way, but it should also mark a joyful chapter in your lives. You accomplished a remarkable feat and I personally applaud you for that.

I am already getting comments and emails from people about how to keep up with the friends that they made on the ride. I am going to leave the blog up for as long as people will continue to use it. If you would like to post comments here for all to read, then please post them on this page. This way, people can come back here periodically and see what new comments have been posted.

I have an entry for just about everyday of the trip. A number of those entries have photos of people whose names I didn't quite get. If you see your picture, note the date and email me and tell me your name and I will go back and make sure we can identify you correctly. Your help will be greatly appreciated.

I might also note that one of the great things about "blogs" such as this one is the ability to go back and add things. If you had a very memorable experience in any town along the way, go back to that date, and click on the "comments" section and tell us about it. This is your space...so use it in the best way you see fit.

I have been adding interviews along the way, and I want to make sure you know where they are and which ones are new, so here is the currently list. I will try to make corrections to this list as soon as I post something new. I still have T.R.Fehrenbach history entries (these are almost ready) and I am still trying to reach Larry McMurtry for an interview, so check back often:

Interview with Mrs. Kraisinger – Co-Author of "The Western, The Greatest Texas Cattle Trail" - Sept 9 (New)

IInterview with Frank Sharp –Expert on the history of the Spanish cattle or Longhorn - Sept 13

Elderbob's Fireside Chat: an Interview with Fayette Yates

Interview with Fayette Yates – Third generation Longhorn breeder - Sept 13
Green Horn Weekend – My first personal experience on the trail at Rockwood - Sept 16

Elmer Kelton Interview – Great interview about the history of the Cowboy by one of Texas most prolific western writers - Sept 20

Robert Wanat Interview – His hobby is tracking down the earliest cattle brand in each county and then creating a miniature replica of that brand, and finally burnishing the brand onto a piece of cowhide shaped into a map of Texas. - Sept. 23

Interview with Lester Galbraith – Retired administrator of Fort Griffin State Park. Few are as knowledgeable about the history of Fort Griffin and the area. - Sept 24

Interview with Dr. Andres Tijerina – Expert on the Texan influence on the trail rides. - Sept 30

Interview with Dr. Turner – An outstanding interview about the trail rides and the history of western Oklahoma and the Indian Territories. - Oct.4 (New)

Lee Hale at the Campfire – The greatest story teller of the ride. - October 9

Interview with Red Steagall – A history of Cowboy Music - October 14 (New)

Elderbob's Fireside Chat: an Interview with John Erikson

Elderbob interviews Hank the Cow-dog creator, John Erickson. – Some chat on why animals had such an important role in the life of cowboys and the "cowboy way" - Oct. 18 (New)

Interview with Jim Sherer – A great interview with the Director of the Kansas Heritage Center on the history of Dodge City and the cattle drives. - October 22 (New)

So many of you have wonderful stories to tell about this ride. I want you to be able to share those stories with others. If you think your story needs to be posted here, don't wait for me to call you, write me an email instead or call me, and give me a bit of background and a phone number, so I can call you and interview you over the phone or I can give you a phone number where you can post your story directly to the blog. My email is: elderbob@elderbob.com . If you are not sure if you want to post it, call me and we can talk about it (972-660-2287).

Finally, I still have a lot of space to host additional photos. I certainly can't put all the photos that everyone took on the blog, but I would be more than happy to host one or two of your favorite photos. Digitize them and send them to me at elderbob@elderbob.com. Try to tell me what the caption should be and I will gladly add that.

...the Trail Boss...

One final, comment... I couldn't be there with you everyday, but I knew where you were, and I could imagine what it must have felt like. My experience with you all was wonderful, whether I was there in person or virtual. You are all awesome folks and I truly hope you will remain in touch. Feel free to call or write me anytime. Thanks for the experience.
~elderbob~

Dodge City, Kansas

2004-10-24T10:13:00.000-05:00

We Made It!!!!

Dodge City, Kansas

2004-10-23T10:15:00.000-05:00

...over 679 miles later, the trail riders actually enter the town of Dodge City, Kansas....

Dodge City, Kansas
Courtesy, Ford County Historical Society, Dodge City, KS

Forty-eight days after the adventure begins, the destination was realized...this was what it had all been about...Kansas welcomes Texas.

...A Texas/Kansas handshake...
Photo by Michael Schweitzer, Dodge City Daily Globe

On a ranch between Mineola and Dodge City, Kansas

2004-10-22T06:52:00.000-05:00

One more day to Dodge City...
Photo by Michael Schweitzer, Dodge Globe.

Well, tomorrow is the big day. I know that everyone is excited about their arrival in Dodge City. Dodge City has thrown out the welcome matt and as it was so many years ago, when the cowboys from Texas finally arrived in town...There will be a party in Dodge City, tonight.....Yeeeehaaaaw!!!.

Dodge City has a fascinating history that is intertwined with the history of the Western Trail. To get a good grasp of how the two related over the years, I had an opportunity to interview Jim Sherer, the Director of the Kansas Heritage Center regarding Dodge City:

Mineola, Kansas

2004-10-21T09:01:00.000-05:00

...another chance to let a school kid get involved...
Photo by Michael Schweitzer, Dodge Globe.

Mineola was established in the 1870's and was once the territorial capital. What is left of it is now an agricultural town. It once boasted a population in the 700's. After losing it's status as Territorial Capital, it faded away. (Information gleaned from files of Ghost Towns and History.)

Ranch outside of Englewood, Kansas

2004-10-20T09:40:00.000-05:00

...she rides side-saddle...
Photo by Amy

Englewood, Kansas - Rest Day

2004-10-19T09:51:00.000-05:00

Englewood, Kansas

2004-10-18T02:44:00.005-05:00

...part of the original trail near Rosston...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale.

We're in Kansas, Toto...

Corrine Donaldson, the mayor of Englewood, tells me that the "Ghost Town and History" link above is not correct. She assures me that there are 101 people living in the small agricultural community. The riders stayed out near the high school here and apparently, a good time was had by all.

The Kansas History Website is a great place to explore the history of Kansas from many different resources.

----------------

I wanted to include something in the blog about other kinds of animals that might have accompanied the early riders. There seems to be a question as to whether dogs accompanied the early drives. There is little documentation to be found, outside of the book, "Lonesome Dove" to indicate that any pets were invited along on any of the trips. But that didn't stop me from talking to one of my favorite pet heroes, Hank the Cowdog and his creator, John Erickson:

Elderbob's podcast

Give it a listen!

Interview with John Erikson

Enjoy! -- Elderbob Brannan

Rosston, Oklahoma

2004-10-17T08:17:00.000-05:00

Sunrise in Oklahoma...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale.

May City, Oklahoma

2004-10-16T09:07:00.000-05:00

Cross country...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale.

Fort Supply, Oklahoma

2004-10-15T07:40:00.000-05:00

...on to Fort Supply...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale.

More information about Fort Supply.

Here are some other tales and even more tales about the area of Northwest Oklahoma in the time of the cattle drives.

George Armstrong Custer is also connected to Fort Supply and this part of Oklahoma and Kansas.

Woodward, Oklahoma (Rest Day)

2004-10-14T09:06:00.000-05:00

Rest day?

Red Steagall is known as the "Official Cowboy Poet of Texas". He was kind enough to take time from his busy schedule to speak with me about the history of cowboy music that might have been heard on the Western Trail.

Woodward, Oklahoma

2004-10-13T02:03:00.000-05:00

Buckaroo in a wagon...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale

Sharon, Oklahoma

2004-10-12T08:34:00.000-05:00

The frogs probably like the weather...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale.

Camargo, Oklahoma

2004-10-11T08:33:00.000-05:00

...another happy rider...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale.

2004-10-10T09:05:00.000-05:00

...I think I can see Dodge City from here...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale.

Hammon City, Oklahoma

2004-10-09T08:32:00.000-05:00

...singin' cowboy tunes around the campfire...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale.

Lee Hale rides a horse, drives the green frog bus, plays guitar and harmonica and tells tall tales. Here's Lee at the campfire with one of his tales.

Lee Hale...photo journalist and tall tale teller.
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale (don't ask me how he did it.)

Elk City, Oklahoma (Rest Day)

2004-10-08T08:24:00.000-05:00

"Oooooklahoma, where the wind comes sweeping through the plains..."
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale

Elk City, Oklahoma (Rest Day)

2004-10-07T08:25:00.000-05:00

I'm seein' spots.
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale

Elk City ( was scheduled in Retrop), Oklahoma

2004-10-06T08:31:00.000-05:00

Sudden fall thunder storms were things that cattle herders were constantly on the lookout for. Just a few lightening bolts or claps of thunder could turn a passive herd into a deadly nightmare on hooves. And so it was this week when the trail boss, peering into her weather prediction crystal ball, decided that it would be best for the trail ride to push harder and go all the way to Elk City rather than take the chance on the bad weather predicted for Retrop, Oklahoma.

So the riders pushed on for a whopping 31 miles on this date and settled into camp in Elk City with an extra day of rest and protection from storms.

Can you imagine seeing three thousand of these shiny eyes on a dark moonlit night...I'd be singing to myself too!
Photo by elderbob.

Granite, Oklahoma

2004-10-05T06:51:00.000-05:00

I think Dodge City is North of here...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale

Slim's Diary - Week Four

2004-10-04T14:51:00.000-05:00

It's not unusual to find Slim hangin' out with a purty woman and a mule...

The history of western Oklahoma and the Western Trail is closely interwoven. I had an opportunity to speak to Dr. Alvin O. Turner, Dean of Humanities and Social Sciences, at East Central University, at Ada, Oklahoma about that part of Oklahoma's history and how the Native Americans had a big role to play in their own way.

You may find this map of the Indian Territories of 1890 helpful.

Blair, Oklahoma

2004-10-04T06:44:00.000-05:00

Cotton Belles outside of Blair, Oklahoma.
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale

Altus, Oklahoma

2004-10-03T15:15:00.000-05:00

"I can't believe I made it to Oklahoma!!!"
Photo by elderbob.

Buffalo gals, won't ya'' come out tonight?...
Photo via Cingular Photo Phone by Lee Hale
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Co-op at Elmer, Oklahoma across from Doan's

2004-10-02T14:54:00.000-05:00

Crossing the Red River at Doan's Crossing:

Andy Adams, in his book The Outlet (1895) described the crossing at Doan’s as the most difficult of the three crossings: Doan’s, Red River Station and Ringgold:

"Red River, this boundary river on the northern border of Texas, was a terror to trail drivers. The majestic grandeur of the river was apparent on every hand, with its red bluff banks, the sediment of its red waters marking the timber along its course, while the driftwood, lodged in trees and high on the banks, indicated what might be expected when she became sportive or angry. The crossing had been in use only a year or two when we forded, yet five graves, one of which was less than ten days made, attested her disregard for human life. It can safely be asserted that at this and lower trail crossings on Red River, the lives of more trail men were lost by drowning than on all other rivers together."

You can read more of Andy’s record of the great cattle trail rides from Texas, The Outlet Project Gutenberg.

Crossing the Red River at Doan's Crossing.
Photo via Cingular Cell Phone by Lee Hale

On Saturday morning, several of the trail riders were joined by the owner of the property at Doan’s Crossing to cross the Red River. All safely forded the river onto Oklahoma soil.

At the same time the riders were crossing the Red River below, the wagons were rolling across the highway bridge over the Red.

Wagons across the Red River bridge.
Photo by elderbob.

In the afternoon, the riders and the wagons joined together again near Elmer to set up camp for the night. It had been a very memorable and exciting day.

The trail riders are about to set up camp at the Elmer, Oklahoma Co-op, just across from Doan's Crossing on the Red River.
Photo via Cingular Cell Phone by Lee Hale.

You can find out more about Okalahoma's history by reading about it's settlement patterns.

Doan's Crossing - Doan's Camp

2004-10-01T17:00:00.000-05:00

The Red River - Border between Texas and Oklahoma.
Photo by elderbob.

Doan's Camp, was the crossing point from Texas to Oklahoma for estimates of long horn cattle as high as 6 million head. This would be the largest amount of cattle crossing at any one point on the Red River. Of the original buildings at Doan's only this adobe home still stands. It has been restored and still retains it's original dirt floors.

Inside of Doan's Camp....Oldest building in county. Note original dirt floor.
Photo by Elderbob

Vernon, Texas - Rest Day

2004-09-30T17:00:00.003-05:00

The Cowboys and Cowgirls:

Howdeee, Podnuh....!!!
Shelly Crowe, a cowgirl who has spent extra time bringing cheer to school kids and nursing home residents all along the trail, greets a group of 2nd and 3rd graders in Vernon.
Photo by elderbob.

The cowboys and cowgirls of the Western Trail have been greatly romanticized over time. They were often so young, desperately in need of work, not afraid to do what was needed and skilled around animals. There was a cultural mix of European, Tejano, African-American, and other cultures. There were both male and female riders. I will be adding some information here about cowboys as we go along the trail so check back often for new information.

Tejano Cowboys:
One third of all the cowboys of the Western Trail were either Tejano (Mexican/Spanish decent) or African-American. I interviewed the author Dr. Andres Tijerina regarding his point of view of how the Tejano cowboy culture affected the Western Trail:

This is part one of the interview with Dr. Tijerina:

This is part two of the interview with Dr. Tijerina:

European (American) Cowboys (check back later)

Black Cowboys (check back later)

The Cowgirls (check back later)

Vernon, Texas

2004-09-29T09:10:00.000-05:00

Even German/American videographers can become cowboys...(Eric Seeger on horseback).
Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel

Waggoner Ranch

2004-09-28T17:00:00.000-05:00

Waggoner Ranch
Photo by elderbob.

Slim's Diary - Week Three

2004-09-27T17:30:00.000-05:00

Slim...that's the wrong one, Dude. Go down on the other end of the line...

Seymour, Texas

2004-09-27T17:00:00.000-05:00

Hash Knife Ranch / L W Hunt Ranch

2004-09-26T17:00:00.000-05:00

Hash Knife Ranch

The Hashknife Ranch
Photo by elderbob.

Throckmorton

2004-09-25T17:00:00.000-05:00

Dave Burrell helps plant another marker across from the Court House in Throckmorton.
Photo by elderbob.

Dave Burrell was one of the early organizers of Celebrate Bandera - The Western Trail. Dave worked on coordinating the drive alongside Sylvia Mahoney from Vernon. Both were present to help plant this marker across from the County Court House in Throckmorton. Sylvia even brought in Red River water to consecrate the place where the marker was to be planted. These markers will eventually mark every six miles of the actual Western Trail route.

Cliff Teinert's Collin Creek Ranch - Fort Griffin, Texas

2004-09-24T07:47:00.000-05:00

Arrival at Steinert Ranch, just outside the fence at Fort Griffin State Park.
Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel

The trail riders stayed at Cliff Teinert's Collins Creek Ranch overnight. It's a lovely ranch and we had the pleasure of staying under a beautiful clear night sky full of stars and an almost full moon.

When Fort Griffin was at it's apogee, the oaks and mesquite of the area were minimal. The soldiers could sit on top of the overlook of Fort Griffin and look down on miles of grassland covered with trail drives, indians and the town below. Today, it is hard to imagine how much has changed.

Just down below the ranch is old Fort Griffin . The Fort Griffin State park marks the site of historic Fort Griffin and home of one of the wildest of the original towns on the Western Trail. Listen to the interview below to find out more about the town and the Fort and the events that surrounded both:

The Towns and Settlements of the Western Trail:

Fort Griffin and The Flats:

Here is an interview with Lester Galbraith regarding Fort Griffin and the area. Mr. Galbraith was Park Ranger at Fort Griffin for over 30 years. He has a unigue knowledge base to tell us about a real frontier town and Fort along the Western Trail, "The Flats" and "Fort Griffin".

Rest Day (Albany, Texas)

2004-09-23T07:46:00.000-05:00

What does one do on a "rest" day?
Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel

Cattle Brands of the Western Trail:

While at rest at Albany, I had an opportunity to interview Robert Wanat about the history of the Texas' cattle brands. Mr. Wanat has created several wonderful calfskin maps of Texas that display the first registered cattle brand for not only each county in Texas (after statehood), but also for the Republic of Texas and the even older, registered Spanish brands. Here's more about Robert and his work:

Robert Wannett's hide with first registered cattle brands.
Photo by elderbob.

This is an interveiw with Mr. Robert Wanat. Mr. Wanat has created miniature cattle brands based on the first registered brand in each county in Texas and affixed them to a cow hide map of the state. Here is how he came up with the idea and how he did his research.

Close up of Wanat's cattle brand map.
Photo by elderbob.

You can buy tickets for a drawing to win one of Robert's awesome maps, at the traveling Western Trail goody wagon from Dave Burrell. Just ask at camp and anyone can point you in Dave's direction.

Albany, Texas

2004-09-22T07:46:00.000-05:00

...nearing Albany...
(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

A welcome sign in Albany...
(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

Baird, Texas

2004-09-21T07:45:00.000-05:00

Like several of the towns along the fringe of Texas civilization in 1860, Baird has it's roots in another community. In fact, in this case, it's roots can be traced back to two early efforts at settlement.

The first, Callahan City was established at a popular watering hole along the cattle drive route of the Western Trail. Callahan County was established in 1858, but the township of Callahan City did not come into existence until 1876.

The first Callahan County Commissioners Court was held in Callahan City in 1877, but in spite of its early foothold in the county, it lost it's status as the central community with the establishment of the county seat in Belle Plain, in December of 1877.

Belle Plain, was a more "planned" community with well laid out streets and a commerce district. It was established on state school lands in 1876. As a community, it knew that once the railroads came, it's existence would extend well into the future. By 1877, Belle Plain College had been established as an intitution of higher learning. It had a newspaper by 1879 and a growing population.

But the Texas and Pacific Railroad had other plans and built its route through the town of Baird. Belle Plain suffered pretty much the same fate as the earlier Callahan City. Once the railroad bypassed the community, the population moved, as well as the county seat in 1883. The newspaper moved Baird, and even the jail was dismantled piece by piece and moved to Baird. The college continued until 1892, when it too closed it'd doors.

Baird, was established in 1880 and remains the county seat to this day.

Slim's Diary - Week Two

2004-09-20T16:38:00.000-05:00

It's time for Slim to check in from the Trail again.

Where's Slim?

Miller Scott Ranch

2004-09-20T07:45:00.000-05:00

An Historic View of Trail Drives:

Interview with author Elmer Kelton:
Elmer Kelton is a prolific western writer of reknown. He was kind enough to allow me to interview him about his knowledge of cattle drives in general and more specifically the Western Trail. You can listen to his interview below:

Joe Hemphill Ranch

2004-09-19T07:44:00.000-05:00

Coleman

2004-09-18T06:29:00.000-05:00

...over the tracks into Coleman...

...someone celebrated an anniversary today...

Santa Anna

2004-09-17T06:29:00.000-05:00

Rockwood

2004-09-16T06:28:00.000-05:00

...the Rockwood that was...

Click here to listen to my audio notes on my first weekend at the trail camp.

elderbob

Click here to view my mini-movie about Rockwood. You must have Windows Movie Player to view this small movie.

Lohn

2004-09-15T06:28:00.000-05:00

"It's like moving an entire town, everyday." - Suzie.

Scene of camp from cotton gin tower at Lohn.

(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

One fellow told me that he enjoyed staying here because of how far one could see. There is not much more than an old cotton gin here, but good things happen in the strangest of places as you can see from the photos of the school kids.

...some of these kids had never been on a horse, much less up close to one...

Brady - Rest Day

2004-09-14T06:32:00.000-05:00

...explaining the cowboy gear...

The Cattle

2004-09-13T07:22:00.000-05:00

The Livestock of the Western Trail

The Longhorn:

The Texas Longhorn, also known as the Spanish cattle were an integral part of the old trail drives. Had it not been for this particular breed of cow, then it is likely that no cattle drives would have ever existed. It was indeed, their hardiness that not only allowed them to proliferate but also caused them to become a part of the cowboy culture of the Western Trail.

Please note that even the Handbook of Texas Online disagrees with some of the material presented here regarding whether the Texas Long Horn is a pure breed or not.

Let's take moment out of our trek Northward and investigate what we know about this special breed of animal.

Interview with Fayette Yates, an extraordinary longhorn breeder:
Mr. Yates is one of the last four true Texas Longhorn breeders who grew up on a ranch. He is third generation livestock breeder who has specialized in Longhorn or Spanish cattle. His herd undoubtably has some of the purest Longhorn blood of any herd today. His cattle have sired much of the Longhorn herds at both the Texas State Park system and the Wichita Mountain National Wildlife Refuge in Oklahoma. NOTICE: Some of the language is a bit colorful but it is a great interview.

Interview with Mr Frank Sharp: Mr. Sharp is also an expert on the history of Spanish Cattle or Texas Longhorn. He has a keen understanding and a wealth of research material to back up his claims that the Texas Longhorn is a direct descendant of the Spanish Cattle:

Brady

2004-09-13T06:00:00.000-05:00

...restin' time... from a post card from Postcards from Texas

Z-donks, Tweetie Bird, and if you look carefully, a tiny pet pig on the left.

(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

Slim's Diary - Week One

2004-09-13T05:15:00.000-05:00

Here is Slim's first report from the Trail.

Slim 'n Dave sing....

Katemcy Ranch

2004-09-12T06:24:00.000-05:00

...the road to Katemcy Ranch...

(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

Originally called Cootsville, the town of Katemcy was reputed to be the location of the signing of a peace treaty between the German Texas settlers and the Comanche Indians. The friction between the indians and the whites is an integral part of the Western Trail. Much of the trail follows the line of settlements and Forts that were loosely designated as the western boundary of civilization. The Comanche were a very powerful nation dealing independentely with both the Republic of Texas and the United States as well as the German settlers in this case. Here in May,1847, Comanche Chief Ketemoczy signed a peace treaty with John O. Meusebach that is still in effect today. Twenty years later, the Comanche nation had essentially lost it's battle with the white settlers and were primarily found on reservations. See the link below for a history of the Comanche Nation.

One of the Trail Guides at an original rock water tank from the Western Trail.

This is what remains of an original rock pen from the Western Trail.

Links:

A History of the Comanche Nation

Mason

2004-09-11T08:56:00.000-05:00

...will you be my Texas Queen?... from a post card from Postcards from Texas

There is little doubt that there was romance along the Western Trail. Young cowboys, hungry for a little affection...country girls who seldom even saw an eligible bachelor out in the middle of the frontier...You know it just had to happen. And when it did, the nearest town with a county seat, was an ideal place to "tie the knot"

Well, last Saturday, it happened to our fair group of buckaroos. "Cajun" Stevens married up with his sweetheart Vicki, out at Fort Mason Park with most of the trail ride looking on. I wasn't there personally, so I can't tell you if there was a "shivaree" or not, but I can tell you that the whole town of Mason turned out to celebrate. Let's wish them both "happy trails".

...a wedding on the trail...

(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

Cherry Spring and Mansfeldt Ranch

2004-09-10T02:31:00.000-05:00

...rollin a cig... from a post card from Postcards from Texas

Cherry Spring is where they buried John O. Meusebach. Meusebach had established a town called Loyal Valley not far from here in 1858. Baron Muesebach was a devoted horticulturist and in its day Loyal Valley was a "garden in a wilderness; a garden in which one can linger and be happy".

Leaving Mansfeldt Ranch...

(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

Additional links:

Loyal Valley at Ghost Towns of Texas
Mason County Hoo Doo Wars by Glenn Hadeler
Johnny Ringo

Rest Day In Fredericksburg

2004-09-09T02:16:00.000-05:00

One reason the Western Trail was so successful was the abundance of water sources...
(from a post card from Postcards from Texas)

Today was an additional day of rest in Fredericksburg before the riders get back under way. Hopefully, while they were here, they had a bit of time to explore some of the wonders of the area.

Co-Author of "Up the Western Trail"

Additional links:

Fredericksburg - German Settlement founded in 1846 in heart of Comanche country

2004-09-08T22:45:00.000-05:00

Early Fredericksburg

The trail ride will be spending two nights here.

Fredericksburg was the second settlement established by the Adlesverein or German Emigrations Company, after New Braunfels. John O. Meusebach's survey party had been so impressed with the abundance of water and the way the geography reminded them of their homeland, that they chose this spot as a settlement in 1845. All this was part of President Sam Houston's grand plan to bring more settlers to the independent Republic of Texas.

It must have been a good choice, because in two years over a 1000 people populated the area around the settelement. There was soon a wagon road from Fredericksburg to Austin and a peace treaty was signed with the Comanche, who had once plagued the area. As the Civil War came along, the community tried to isolate itself from the rest of the world and not get involved. Even after the war, the settlers tried to maintain their strong sense of independence by speaking only German. Eventually the offers of trade with the outside world helped break down this barrier and the community became an intergral part of Texas' growth.

Today, one cannot think of Fredericksburg without recalling its restored, vibrant downtown full of shop on the original main street, many businesses still occupying the original business buildings. Spring brings an abundance of the beauty of Texas wildflowers and later some of the best Peaches you ever put in your mouth. The area is rich in history and was one of the primary stops on the Western Trail.

...the streets of Fredericksburg...

(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

Additional links:

Also here is Part I of Brock's Commentary.

2004-09-07T22:45:00.000-05:00

"Dog-trot" Cabin

Towns along the way...

2004-09-07T14:28:00.000-05:00

If you look at a map and follow the Western Trail northward, you will notice that it followed the leading edge of post civil war community establishment. The towns through which or around which the trail followed were not long established communities. Many were already present because they were on the route of other more westerly establishment. By the time the Western Trail was instituted, there had already been California bound cattle drives, cattle drives into Louisiana and the previously established cattle drives to other locales in Kansas and points further north. There was also already a westward flow of travelers and explorers headed for riches and adventure and the land of sunsets, but there were few established towns. The tensions between Mexico, Native Americans, and Texans (or for that matter Oklahomans and Kansans) would keep townships from being established west of the Western Trails for a few more years. Much of the Western Trail lay along a rough line of military forts built to protect early settlers from encroachment from Mexicans or Indians. I guess, what I am trying to say is that every town that lay in the path of the Western Trail was like a beacon for the trail. It was if each town offered some respite from the dangers of open land. At the same town, every town would come to be influenced by the trail.

With that in mind, I am beginning to post each day a link back to a wonderful internet resource, the Texas State Historical Association’ Handbook of Texas Online. I will post a link everyday to an entry regarding the location where the trail riders are spending the night. I believe the reader will get a better sense of how geography influenced this particular cattle drive and how this cattle drive influenced the establishment of these towns. I will add to those postings, any links that I think will give you a better feel for what the town was like in the latter half of the 19th century and what life is like today in the same area. If you have additional information, please feel free to post via the comments section.

Towns already visited:

...beginnings...

2004-09-07T10:32:00.000-05:00

...leaving Bandera...

Well, Monday morning came early and the pioneer spirit could hardly be drenched by the brief rain that fell. Despite the damp, the Western Trail ride got underway with an estimated 225 cowboys and cowgirls, and forty some odd wagons. People from 19 different states had signed on, saddled up or stepped aboard a wagon to begin the adventure of a lifetime. I am convinced that this will be a life altering experience for many of those buckaroos. The tales that come from this jaunt up a historic byway of times past, will be the fodder of stuff for grandparent tales in days to come. Some will bring home photos, and some will bring home journals, but all will come home with memories of an awesome event. One not often duplicated in time.

...the trail guide never leaves his post, regardless of the weather...
(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

Of course there were problems. Perhaps they were not of the magnitude of the problem of the first travelers of this trail, but glitches, never the less. The cellular phone with which audio and photo reporting didn’t arrive at the ride until late on Wednesday. The rains made the road muddy and some of the wagons had some trouble negotiating the mire. There was a last minute change in where the night's camp would be. But in the end, the riders moved on and all turned out well.

The change in plans allowed me a chance to delve more deeply into the history of the ride and tomorrow I will post a longer narrative about the background of the Western Trail. In the meantime, I have added some links to the University of Texas Perry-Castenada Map Collection. One of these old maps documents several of the old cattle trails and the other provides us with an excellent look at frontier life in Texas around 1869. I will add more maps for Oklahoma and Kansas as we get further down the road. The maps appear as links to your left.

I want to add a bit of ambience to this blog. I want to set a virtual mood that allows one to more easily imagine the life on the trail. I will be adding more audio links as we go along but for now, I thought I would point you to some links that help set the "cowboy" mood. Below, you will find a link to the 20th National Cowboy Gathering in Elko, Nevada. There are more than 10 hours or RealAudio recordings of cowboy poetry, tales and music for anyone who wishes to listen. There is also a link to an internet radio station that I think celebrates the spirit of the Western Trail, the Cowboy Cultural Society at KPIG internet radio. When you get ready to read the post or any future posts, plug one of these audio files into your favorite media player and listen along.

See ya’ ‘round the campfire.

Elderbob
the blog boss

...a trail rider always has raingear...

(Photo by Eric Seeger, Have Camera Will Travel)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Links:

Longhorns

2004-09-06T08:25:00.000-05:00

Originally uploaded by elderbob.

Longhorn cattle from the YO Ranch are herded in front of the court house in Bandera, Texas to kick-off Celebrate Bandera and the beginning of the Western Trail trail drive.

Photo copyrighted by Jessica Hawley, Staff Photographer at Bandera Bulletin. Used with permission.

the day dawns....

2004-09-06T08:00:00.000-05:00

...as the fog begins to lift, there is a soft cacophony of work sounds and the smell of fresh coffee in the air. The occasional quiet clanging of metal against metal, the butter soft noise of leather being tightened, or cloth being rolled up, and the low din of "'mornin', sleep well?" are the tell-tale signs that camp is breaking up. As the sky lightens, movement of figures splays out against a blue grey background of early day. Cowboys and cowgirls move with a special deliberateness this morning. The visions of big hats, blue jeans, spurs and saddles, indicate the nearness of the hour of departure. There are lots of hugs, a few tears and an enormous energy about the campground. Family members pass last minute instruction back and forth to each other. They are nearing the mount-up. A dream is slowing awakening this dawning. A dream of traveling down a path blazed so many years ago for reasons all different than today’s path. All different and yet in a sense the same. Those earlier passers-by rode this way for the adventure too.

It’s Monday morning, September 6, 2004, in Bandera, Texas. The parades, and campfires and the dancing are over. Now the trail begins in earnest. Now the ride begins in reality. And at least for me, the story begins in virtual reality. This day will be a historic day for so many. This day will mark the changing of a life. This day will mark the start of another chapter in many people’s life story. This day will be the embarkation of the experience of a lifetime. This day will be the day that the trail riders of the Western Trail put dreams into reality. Six hundred and Fifty-Five miles from now….Forty-eight days from now….Three states away from here and now…the same riders will turn in their saddles and look back at the trail. The dream will BE reality.

I think there are a lot of us in the cyber world imagining what all this must look like. Over one hundred fifty horses and riders and over forty wagons and teams will ride off into this historic journey. For all of us, there is a blur between the historic accuracy of the thing that actually happened, over a hundred years ago, and the vision of what today and those that embrace today look like. For many of us the difference between now and then is a slender line. For these riders, now is all they have to think about. The remembering of the past will come from the experience of riding a horse or wagon up that once leading-edge of civilization. My task then is to give the reader of these posts the experience of riding along with our brave cowboys and cowgirls. Of realizing the same thoughts and sensations of those who are actually there. Of seeing what is left of a frontier from the back of a horse. I also owe it to those who are there to actually show how this experience is affecting them; to report accurately what they live. I think I must be just as excited about this beginning as those who are actually there.

So join us all for the coming weeks, for a foray into the past, the present and the future. As they used to say, “If the creeks don’t rise…” there will be daily posts regarding the progress of the trail riders, photos of what it looks like today, and tales about what life itself was like yesteryear. I am posting some maps tonight so you will have an idea of where we are all heading, and each day will tell you a bit about the historic value of that day’s ride. There will be interviews with trail riders and with the early settlers of this trail. There will be tales about cattle and trails from other places….from places you wouldn’t have thought would affect us here. There will be questions and comments from readers. And there will be activities to think about and to apply to your own present day lives.

So join me in waving a hearty farewell to this brave group of 21st century folks traveling down a 19th century byway. Godspeed to you all. May your trip be safe and eventful.
Bless you each and everyone.

elderbob

If you would like to read a bit more about cattle drives, "Historic Sketches of the Cattle Trade of the West and Southwest, by Joseph G. McCoy is a pretty good place to start.

The Modern Longhorn

2004-09-03T23:47:00.002-05:00

Here is a photo of the modern day Longhorn from the files of the Texas Longhorn Breeder Association of America. It is the direct descendant of the cattle that were once herded up the historic Great Western Trail.

The history of these marvelous animals is tightly woven into the story of the settlement of the west. They are a very important link to who we are and why we are here. Without them, Texas would not have become the great State that it is, and the west would have not introduced the kind of culture that it did. Their very existence can be said to have changed the history of this nation.

More information can be found here:
- History of Cattle Drives
- History of the Longhorn
- Map of the Cattle Drives including the Great Western Trail

Old Tex

2004-09-01T14:21:00.000-05:00

"Old Tex" a post card from Postcards from Texas

Brock's Perspective of the Western Trail

2004-09-01T11:55:00.000-05:00

Brock Jones, III is a western historian from Sul Ross University in Alpine, Texas. Brock will be joining us periodically throughout the trail ride with his historic commentary, "An Historical Perspective of the Western Trail". Brock is a great writer and has a unique perspective on Texas history. I hope you will enjoy his work.

To get a jump on the actual trail ride and at the same time supply the reader with a bit of history before we start, Brock's first post will be on September 1. Let us know what you think of Brock's commentary.

Read the "Preface" here.

fence

2004-08-26T01:59:00.000-05:00

fence
Originally uploaded by bambis_black_rainbow.

...there was a time before fencing...

2004-08-26T01:58:00.000-05:00

A Trail Through History...

2004-08-26T01:33:00.001-05:00

Imagine if you can, a weathered old cowboy on the Western Trail around 1880, driving a herd of Texas longhorns to Dodge City, Kan. His Stetson is pulled low over his eyes and his wet bandana is tied tight over his mouth and nose to keep out the swirling dust kicked up by the cattle.

His men are strung out the length of the indifferent herd - just over 2,500 head. The men have a sixth sense about this innocent summer day, and they are on edge. They know the dust can turn to mud in a minute. They know that the docile animals they're driving can, with a flash of lightning, turn into raging beasts in less time than that. It is an uneasy ride.

They've been here before. The prairie has been open range, without fence or farm, since they left Ft. Griffin. Day is drawing to a close. Whatever the night brings, they will face alone.

Now fast-forward to 2004. The trail boss reaches into her shirt pocket for a Cingular wireless phone. She turns it on its side and takes a picture of the fenced pastures up ahead that used to be part of the old trail. She clicks a button and checks the picture she just snapped. Now she dials a phone number to Blogger.com and presents her username and password and downloads the picture to www.elderbobonthetrail.blogspot.com, which is the official blog, or web log, of Celebrate the Western Trail.

She keys in another number and tells the story of today's ride in her Texas drawl. When she is finished with her five-minute report, she keys the cell phone and her voice is placed on the On the Trail Blog, along with the earlier photo.

Children in China will access the website of the blog to read and see progress up the historic cattle trail. Students in Poland can see the same post and discuss how life must have been in the American West of earlier days. The lesson is learning English-as-a-Second-Language, the history of the American Frontier and the uses of technology, all brought about by a review of the blog.

When the trail ride comes to rest by the campfire at the next town on their itinerary, someone will present our trail boss with a set of questions gathered from the day's e-mails and she will decide which ones to answer by e-mail and which ones to answer on the blog.

Tomorrow, when the kid in Nebraska checks the automatic posting of the On the Trail Blog, he'll find out from the trail boss that the batteries are recharged each night and that at least two sets of fresh batteries are always on hand.

Bandera Regional Comm-unity Foundation sponsors the On The Trail Blog, one of the educational components of Celebrate the Western Trail. The foundation organized the Friends of the Western Trail in 2003, whose purpose is to support the trail ride, and to preserve the history and heritage of the American West. The trail ride will leave Bandera on Sept. 6, Labor Day, and follow the Western Trail to Dodge City, Kan.

The blogging, the brainchild of Elderbob Brannan, (elderbob@elderbob.com) will occur daily for the duration of the trail drive. The On the Trail Blog will also contain a historical narrative that relates to actual sites on the trail, described by Brock Jones III, a professor at Sul Ross University. Jones is blind and will use a voice-assisted computer device to write his post.

Please join the trail ride electronically on the Internet. You are welcome to point your browser to www.elderbobonthetrail.blogspot.com, the On the Trail Blog, for a daily update on the progress of Celebrate the Western Trail.

Celebrate the Western Trail is part of Celebrate Bandera, the annual Labor Day weekend celebration of Bandera's frontier heritage. Celebrate Bandera is also sponsored by the Bandera Regional Community Foundation. The purpose of both events is to raise money for the Bandera County Disaster Relief Fund and to help finance the cost of marking the Western Trail in Texas.

Itinerary

The project starts...

2004-08-23T01:31:00.000-05:00

…I had wanted to do some sort of interactive, constructivist blog for some time. And there it was, a note from Sharon Hutson down at Half-Way Ranch outside of Comanche about a neighbor that she knows, who is involved in a three-state cattle drive just like in the old days.

Immediately, thoughts start roaming my head with cowboys on horseback posting audio blogs about cattle herding being heard by boys and girls from Poland to China as an adjunct to their classroom studies of English as a foreign language. Real Texas cowboys talking in real Texas jargon about a real Texas cattle drive…broadcast around the world. Kids and adults could comment on the daily blog posts and through the aide of a laptop, directly to the wranglers. The wranglers, in turn, would be able to see how many people around the world were following their quest. Pictures of the Drive would be downloaded daily from cell-phones and displayed in blog galleries to show visually what things looked like from the back of a saddle in the middle of a real trail drive.

The trail drive is called “Ride of the Century – Adventure of a Lifetime”. It is an authentic cattle drive and Wagon Train from Bandera, Texas, across three states ending at Dodge City, Kansas. It begins on Septemeber 6 and expected to finish on October 23. Six Hundred and Fifty Five miles in Forty-eight days.

I don’t even have the details worked out, when Sharon interjects that I have til Tuesday to pull this off, because that’s when her friend goes off to do advance work on the Trail Drive. That doesn’t give me a lot of time. I still need to get hold of Brock out at Sul Ross in Alpine for his daily history of the route of the trail. He has access to tons of western historical data that could really liven up the blog….if he is willing to do this.

And the blog itself…I have to set up a new blog to make it easy for trail drivers and viewers and listeners alike to access. And I haven’t even contacted the lady in charge of communication to see if she thinks we can do this. I decide right away, that even if she says “no:, I will still have the thing set up to do some other project of a similar nature. Something that links the far corners of the world to a real time event of some nature that has within itself lessons that can be learned to better all of us. And above all, something that becomes what the users want it to become…interactive and constructivist…

Sharon says, I need to have a proposal to her husband by Tuesday, when he can tell Dixie about the details. I start a proposal in Word, but before the first sentence hits the page, I think, “Wait, if this is constructivist, then I’ll post the whole thing on the blog.” So off to http://www.blogger.com/ to set up the “Elderbob On The Trail” blog. A few connections later and http://www.elderbobonthetrail.blogspot.com/ is born. Next on to Audioblog set up the connections that will make it possible to post the audio MP3s on the blog each day. Select a template, and I am almost done. Now all I have to do, is get everyone’s permission and willingness to work together on this to get it all done.

Note to Sharon: As you can see I have already put something together. I would appreciate it if you would have your husband let Dixie Turner know about this blog and a phone number where she can reach me or the phone number where she can make an audio post that will be on the blog. I will be sending you information on both via email.

Note to Dixie Turner: Well, if you read this far, you have an idea of what I have in mind. You know why I want to do it, but I suspect that you can find a lot of other useful ends from the product. I hope you will tell me that is both possible and that you are interested. Even if I am too late to cover this trail drive, there will be others. This one just sounded like the right one to me. I hope you feel the same way.

Note to Brock in Alpine: Ok Dude, is this enough of a challenge for you, is it too much. You can find the itinerary here. I think it is a treasure trove of Western Lore. As far as I am concerned you are free to put what you will on the blog, either audio or text. If you need assistance editing or posting the text, let me know. Short of that, if you will write out the script, I will see if I can get Tom Dodge to read it everyday for the duration.

To the readers: Ok, so far so good. Now the hard part starts. This is a first time experience for me and probably for the rest of those involved. I am convinced that even if we make errors, in the long run it will be a marvelous project.

To the educators and students: I haven’t forgotten you. I want to involve you as best I can, so I am leaving it open as to how best to serve your needs. Please let me know how I can do that.

elderbob - the blog boss